Spaghetti with Marinated Salmon, Capers, and Herbs

Suggested wine: Valpolicella; dolcetto

Capers, the flower buds of a bush native to the Mediterranean, are a favorite pantry staple of mine. I keep several types on the shelf or in the refrigerator. The petite capers from southern France, called nonpareils, are delicate and best used as a garnish for small bites, such as smoked salmon canapés. The larger capers, which can be as large as the tip of your little finger, are either packed in a vinegar and salt brine, or in salt. Capers packed in salt are delicious, but need to be soaked in freshwater for 30 minutes to remove the excess salt. For this pasta dish, which is so quick to assemble, I like to use larger capers preserved in brine because they only need to be rinsed and drained. Aesthetically, I like the look and “meatiness” of this size of caper with the pasta, salmon, and Parmesan.

SERVES 4 TO 6 AS A MAIN COURSE

• 1 salmon fillet (¼ pounds), skin and pin bones removed , cut into ¼-inch dice
• ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
• 5½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher or sea salt
• Freshly ground pepper
• 1 pound spaghetti
• ¼ cup capers, rinsed and drained
• ½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1¼ cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a medium bowl, combine the salmon, lemon juice, 1½ tablespoons of the olive oil, ¼ teaspoon of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Gently mix until the salmon is well coated. Set aside at room temperature to marinate for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, fill an 8- to 10-quart stockpot two-thirds full of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of salt to the boiling water, then add the pasta. Stir and cook the pasta until al dente (cooked through, but still slightly chewy), about 10 minutes.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil in a small sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the capers and cook, stirring constantly, until crisp, about 3 minutes. Add the parsley and cook just until heated through, about 1 minute. Set aside and keep warm.

Drain the pasta in a colander, but do not rinse. Return the pasta to the stockpot and toss with the caper mixture and two-thirds of the Parmesan cheese. Add the salmon and toss gently to combine. Divide the pasta among warmed bowls, spooning any remaining salmon and capers over each serving. Sprinkle the remaining Parmesan cheese over the top and serve immediately.