Orecchiette with Smoked Salmon, Spinach, Lemon Zest, and Pine Nuts

Suggested wine: pinot grigio

A simple sauce with a minimum of ingredients, yet the end result is delicious. I love the interplay of lemon and cream; the invigorating bite of lemon cuts the richness of the cream. The dish looks lovely in a bowl, with the hints of pink salmon and the bright green spinach floating in the creamy sauce. This pasta is easy enough for a weeknight meal but special enough to serve to guests.

SERVES 4 TO 6 AS A MAIN COURSE

• Kosher or sea salt
• 1 pound dried orecchiette pasta (“little ears”)
• ½ cup pine nuts
• 1½ cups heavy (whipping) cream
• 12 ounces baby spinach leaves
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
• 8 ounces alder-smoked or other hot-smoked salmon , skin removed, cut into bite-sized pieces
• Freshly ground pepper

Fill an 8 - to 10 -quart stockpot two-thirds full of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of salt to the boiling water, then add the pasta. Stir and cook the pasta until al dente (cooked through, but still slightly chewy), about 10 minutes.

While the pasta is cooking, heat a dry 8 -inch skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the pine nuts and toast them, stirring constantly, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small plate and set aside. In a large sauté pan or skillet, bring the cream to a boil over medium heat. Add the spinach, a handful at a time, and stir just until it wilts, about 1 minute. Add the lemon zest and juice, 1 teaspoon of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Stir to combine, then gently stir in the salmon. Cook just until heated through. Set aside and keep warm.

Drain the pasta in a colander, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking water. Do not rinse the pasta. Add the pasta to the pan with the sauce along with ½ cup of the reserved cooking water. Toss gently to combine and coat the pasta. Stir in the pine nuts. Add additional cooking water if the sauce seems too thick. Divide the pasta among warmed bowls, spooning any remaining salmon, spinach, and pine nuts over each serving. Serve immediately.