Suggested wine: German riesling
Think of this as a salmon pho, the Vietnamese
equivalent of comforting and hearty noodle soup usually made with beef. I’ve
skipped a few of the traditional salad garnishes to make this a quick, easy
weeknight meal in a bowl, but feel free to add a few more garnishes if you like.
Sliced green onions and bean sprouts would be good, and pumping up the heat with
a little sriacha, a chile purée, will give the soup an extra kick. This
soup is especially welcome on a chilly, rainy night, and I always enjoy any
leftovers.
SERVES 6 AS A LIGHT SUPPER
- 5 ounces rice stick noodles (see Cook’s Notes)
- 8 large dried shiitake mushrooms
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 1 large clove garlic, minced
- 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
- 1 yellow onion, halved lengthwise and cut into thin wedges
- 2 serrano chiles, including seeds and ribs, cut into thin rounds
- 8 cups low-sodium chicken broth
- 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce (see Cook’s Notes)
- 3 star anise pods
- 1 large carrot, peeled and julienned
- 6 heads baby bok choy, halved lengthwise
- 1 salmon fillet (1 pound), skin and pin bones removed , cut into 6 equal portions
- ¾ cup loosely packed fresh Thai basil or sweet basil leaves, shredded (see Cook’s Notes)
Place the rice stick noodles in a large bowl and cover
completely with hot water. Soak until softened, about 20 minutes. Rinse
under warm water, drain, then cover and set aside.
Place the mushrooms in a small container with a
tight-fitting lid, fill the container to the top with hot water, and cover.
(Using a covered container keeps the mushrooms completely submerged.) Soak the
mushrooms until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain, discard the stems,
and cut the mushrooms into thin strips. Set aside.
Meanwhile, in a 6-quart saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low
heat and swirl to coat the pan. Sauté the garlic, ginger, onion, and chiles
until soft but not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken broth, soy
sauce, and anise. Reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover, and cook for 15
minutes. Add the carrot and reserved mushrooms and cook until the carrot is
crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add the bok choy and salmon. Simmer just until
the salmon is cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes longer.
Divide the noodles among 6 heated soup bowls. Ladle the soup
over the noodles and top each bowl with a piece of salmon and 2
portions of bok choy. Garnish with the basil and serve immediately.
COOK’S NOTES
Rice noodles are sold primarily in Asian grocery stores,
but many well-stocked supermarkets also have them. The noodles used in this
recipe are Thai or Vietnamese translucent flat rice stick noodles about ¼ inch
wide. The package will be labeled rice stick (ban pho or sen yai).
• Dark soy sauce, sometimes labeled “black soy sauce “ or “soy superior
sauce,” is aged for longer periods than regular soy sauce and usually contains
molasses. It adds a distinct and hearty depth of flavor to a dish. My favorite
brand is Koon Chun Black Soy. If you can’t find dark soy sauce, substitute 1
tablespoon of regular soy mixed with ½ teaspoon of molasses. • Thai
sweet basil (bai horapha) has purplish stems, green leaves, and an
aniseed aroma and flavor. It is commonly used in soups, curries, and stir-fried
dishes. Though primarily sold in Asian grocery stores, many well-stocked natural
foods stores carry Thai basil. Substitute Italian sweet basil if
necessary.
