Thai Coconut Soup with Salmon, Ginger, and Lemongrass

Suggested wine: Alsatian or Oregon pinot gris; riesling; gewùrztraminer

Don’t be discouraged from making this soup because of the long list of ingredients—this is a quick one-pot meal. I purposely cook the rice noodles first so the pot can be rinsed and reused. (I love to cook, dislike doing dishes, and am always trying to figure out handy cleanup-saving methods!) If your supermarket doesn’t have all the ingredients you need, either head to an Asian market to pick up supplies or order them online. The curry pastes will keep indefinitely in the refrigerator. Rice noodles and Thai fish sauce are a boon to have in the pantry. Kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass will keep for a couple of weeks in the refrigerator or can be frozen.

SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT SUPPER

• 6 ounces rice vermicelli (see Cook’s Notes)
• 1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
• 1 large clove garlic, minced
• 1 small yellow onion, halved lengthwise and cut into thin wedges
• ¼ teaspoon Thai red curry paste (see Cook’s Notes)
• 2 teaspoons Thai yellow curry paste (see Cook’s Notes)
• 1 can (13.5 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk
• 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 stalk lemongrass, trimmed to about 8 inches long, halved lengthwise and flattened with the flat side of a knife
• 2 fresh kaffir lime leaves or 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
• 1 salmon fillet (1 pound), skin and pin bones removed , cut into bite-sized pieces

Garnish

• 4 ounces bean sprouts, soaked in ice water for 10 minutes, then drained
• ¾ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves
• ½ cup loosely packed fresh Thai basil or sweet basil leaves, shredded (see Cook’s Notes)

Fill a 6-quart soup pot two-thirds full of water, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the rice vermicelli and salt and cook the noodles until they are soft but not completely tender, 4 minutes. (They will finish cooking once added to the soup.) Drain in a colander, rinse with cold water, drain again, and set aside. Rinse and dry the pot.

In the same pot, heat the oil over medium-low heat and swirl to coat the pan. Sauté the ginger, garlic, and onion until well coated with the oil, 1 minute. Cover the pan and cook the aromatics until softened but not brown, 2 minutes longer. Add the red and yellow curry pastes and sauté, stirring constantly, until well mixed, about 1 minute. Add the coconut milk, chicken broth, lemongrass, and lime leaves or juice. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 15 minutes.

Using tongs, remove the lemongrass and lime leaves from the soup. Add the fish sauce and reserved noodles to the soup and simmer for 3 minutes. (At this point, the soup can be made up to 1 day in advance. Refrigerate, covered, then bring back to a simmer.) Add the salmon and simmer just until the fish is cooked through, about 3 minutes. Divide among warmed deep bowls and serve immediately. Pass the garnishes at the table.

COOK’S NOTES

Rice noodles are sold primarily in Asian grocery stores, but many well-stocked supermarkets also have them. Rice vermicelli, a long, thin rice noodle, is just one style. These noodles are extra-thin, about 8 inches long, and sold in cellophane packages. Within the package, the noodles are either loose or neatly bundled with a string. If you can’t find rice vermicelli, the slightly wider rice stick noodles will work, too. • Thai red and yellow curry pastes are available in small jars and cans at supermarkets or Asian grocery stores. Thai red curry paste is made of ground red chiles, herbs, and spices and packs a punch. Use more (or less) to please your taste buds.