Salmon Rillettes

Suggested wine: California or French chardonnay; chardonnay-semillon blend

I obtained this recipe years ago from Lucien Vanel, who owns Restaurant Vanel in the old city of Toulouse, France. The mixture improves with age, making it a perfect do-ahead hors d’oeuvre for a party. It will keep up to 1 week under a layer of clarified butter. Plan to make it at least 2 days before serving to allow the flavors to meld.

SERVES 12 AS AN APPETIZER

• 1 salmon fillet (1 pound), skin and pin bones removed
• ¼ teaspoon kosher or sea salt
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 large shallot, minced
• 2 tablespoons dry white wine
• 4 ounces smoked salmon (lox), cut into ¼-inch dice
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1 large egg yolk
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• Freshly ground white pepper

Cut the fillet into 4 equal portions. Sprinkle with the salt and let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes.

To make clarified butter for sealing the rillettes, melt 7 tablespoons of the butter in a medium sauté pan. Pour the butter into a 1-cup glass measure and set aside until the foam comes to the top and the milky residue settles to the bottom. Skim off the foam and carefully pour the clear yellow liquid into another measuring cup or small bowl. Discard the milky residue. Set the clarified butter aside.

Using the same sauté pan set over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter until it foams. Add the shallot and sauté until soft but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the salted salmon pieces in one layer and pour the wine over the top. Cover the salmon with a piece of waxed paper, and then with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for 2 minutes. Turn the salmon, cover, and cook just until the fish turns opaque, about 2 minutes longer. Remove the pan from the heat but keep it covered and let the salmon cool in the pan.

In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process the remaining 7 tablespoons butter until creamy. Use a fork to flake the cooled salmon and add it to the work bowl. Add the smoked salmon and pulse the mixture just until combined. The texture should be grainy—do not process until smooth. Add the olive oil, lemon juice, egg yolk, nutmeg, and a little pepper. Pulse just until combined. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Pack the rillettes into either two 1-cup crocks or ramekins, or one 2-cup ramekin. Smooth the surface. If the clarified butter has solidified, heat it just until melted but not hot. Pour just enough butter over each ramekin to cover the rillettes by about ⅓ inch. Refrigerate.

Remove from the refrigerator about 40 minutes before serving. Remove the layer of butter by running a paring knife around the rim of the ramekin and lifting off the butter. (Scrape any of the salmon mixture off the butter and save the butter for later cooking. Use within a couple of days.) Serve the rillettes at room temperature, accompanied with crostini or crackers.