Salmon, Leek, and Celery Root Chowder

Suggested wine: California or French chardonnay

Celery root, also called celeriac, is texturally close to potatoes when cooked and has a unique flavor reminiscent of celery and parsley. This brown, knobby vegetable is the root of a specially bred celery plant. Look for firm roots that are medium to large in size. Use a paring knife rather than a vegetable peeler to remove the rough peel.

SERVES 6 AS A LIGHT SUPPER

• 3 strips bacon, cut into ½-inch dice
• 3 leeks, white and light green part only, halved lengthwise and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
• 1½ pounds celery root (celeriac), peeled, halved, and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
• 3 cups bottled clam juice
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 salmon fillet (12 ounces), skin and pin bones removed , cut into bite-sized pieces
• 1½ cups half-and-half
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• Kosher or sea salt
• Freshly ground pepper

In a heavy soup pot over medium-high heat, cook the bacon until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan. Add the leeks and sauté over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until softened but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the celery root, clam juice, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the celery root is tender, about 15 minutes.

Add the salmon, bacon, half-and-half, tarragon, and parsley to the soup pot. Cook just below a simmer until the salmon is cooked through, about 5 minutes. (The half-and-half will curdle if the soup comes to a boil.) Remove the bay leaf and sprigs of thyme. Add the lemon juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir gently to keep the salmon chunks intact. Serve immediately.