Salmon, Corn, and Potato Chowder with Fresh Thyme

Suggested wine: California or French chardonnay; dry chenin blanc

In this recipe, I skillet-toast the fresh corn for an added depth of flavor, and use fresh herbs, always my preference over dried ones. If you are into trimming calories, know you can use as little as one strip of bacon and still get that bacon taste, and milk can be substituted for the half-and-half; just don’t let the chowder come to a boil.

SERVES 6 A SALIGHT SUPPER

• 2 ears fresh corn
• ½ teaspoon kosher or sea salt
• 3 strips bacon, finely chopped
• 1 yellow onion, chopped
• 2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
• 2 cups bottled clam juice
• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
• 2 cups half-and-half
• 1 salmon fillet (about 6 ounces), skin and pin bones removed , halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into thin slices
• ⅓ cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
• Freshly ground pepper

Husk the corn and remove all the silk. Trim the bottom end of the cob so it is even and cut close to the cob. To remove the kernels from the cobs, stand an ear of corn upright on a work surface, and with a sharp knife, cut downward along the cob. Reserve the kernels; discard cobs.

Heat a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the corn and sauté until the kernels are lightly browned and toasted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the salt, then remove the pan from the heat.

Cook the bacon in a heavy soup pot until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan. Add the onion and sauté over medium heat for 1 minute, then cover and cook until soft but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the potatoes, clam juice, and thyme. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the potatoes are tender, 10 to 12 minutes.

Add the corn, bacon, half-and-half, and salmon to the soup pot. Cook just below a simmer until the salmon is cooked through, about 5 minutes. (The half-and-half will curdle if the soup comes to a boil.) Add the parsley and season to taste with pepper. Serve immediately.