Wild Rice Salad with Hot-Smoked Salmon, Mango, Green Onions, and Toasted Hazelnuts

Suggested wine: Spanish albariño or Portuguese alvarinho; sauvignon blanc

Wild rice, so often served with roast turkey or chicken, is a terrific partner with salmon. I ‘m especially fond of pairing wild rice with hot-smoked salmon because the earthy, rustic flavor of the rice is perfect with the deep, smoky quality of the alder-smoked fish. Color plays a big role in making this salad a visual delight. The glistening pink salmon sits atop sleek brown-black grains of rice speckled with orange chunks of mango, slivers of green onions, and toasted hazelnuts. A lemon-ginger dressing pops the flavor, making this salad a standout.

SERVES 4

• 1½ cups wild rice
• Kosher or sea salt
• 1 heaping tablespoon alder wood chips
• Nonstick cooking spray
• 1 center-cut salmon fillet (about 1½ pounds), skin on and scaled, pin bones removed, skin dried by wiping with a knife
• Juice of ½ lemon
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
• ½ cup halved hazelnuts
• 1 mango, peeled, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice
• 4 green onions, including green tops, thinly sliced

Dressing

• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1½ tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• ½ teaspoon sugar

Place the rice in a medium saucepan and add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Add */? teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, 40 to 50 minutes. Drain in a sieve and rinse with cool water so the rice is cooled but not cold. Drain again. Place in a large mixing bowl.

MEANWHILE, HOT-SMOKE THE SALMON: Using a stovetop smoker or wok, place the wood chips in a small pile in the center of the pan. Place a drip tray, covered with aluminum foil, on top of the chips. (If using a wok, set a large sheet of aluminum foil loosely in place over the wood chips.) Place a wire rack, sprayed with nonstick spray, on top of the drip tray or foil. Arrange the salmon on top, squeeze the juice of ½ lemon over the salmon, and then sprinkle with a little salt and the cayenne pepper. Slide the lid on the stovetop smoker or cover the wok, leaving it slightly open, and then place the smoker over medium heat. When the first wisp of smoke appears, close the lid. Smoke the salmon for 17 minutes. Turn the heat off and leave the salmon in the smoker, covered, for an additional 5 minutes. Remove the lid and set the salmon aside.

Spread the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast them in a preheated 3SO°F oven until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Rub the nuts together in a terry kitchen towel to remove the skins. (Not all of the skins will come off, which is not a problem.) Add the hazelnuts, mango, and green onions to the rice. Toss lightly to combine.

TO MAKE THE DRESSING: Whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, and sugar. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Pour the dressing over the rice mixture and toss to blend. Divide the rice mixture among 4 dinner plates. Cut the salmon crosswise into 4 pieces. Place a salmon fillet in the center, on top of the salad, and serve immediately.