Rice Noodle Soup with Salmon, Baby Bok Choy, and Shiitake Mushrooms

Suggested wine: German riesling

Think of this as a salmon pho, the Vietnamese equivalent of comforting and hearty noodle soup usually made with beef. I’ve skipped a few of the traditional salad garnishes to make this a quick, easy weeknight meal in a bowl, but feel free to add a few more garnishes if you like. Sliced green onions and bean sprouts would be good, and pumping up the heat with a little sriacha, a chile purée, will give the soup an extra kick. This soup is especially welcome on a chilly, rainy night, and I always enjoy any leftovers.

SERVES 6 AS A LIGHT SUPPER

• 5 ounces rice stick noodles (see Cook’s Notes)
• 8 large dried shiitake mushrooms
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 large clove garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
• 1 yellow onion, halved lengthwise and cut into thin wedges
• 2 serrano chiles, including seeds and ribs, cut into thin rounds
• 8 cups low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce (see Cook’s Notes)
• 3 star anise pods
• 1 large carrot, peeled and julienned
• 6 heads baby bok choy, halved lengthwise
• 1 salmon fillet (1 pound), skin and pin bones removed , cut into 6 equal portions
• ¾ cup loosely packed fresh Thai basil or sweet basil leaves, shredded (see Cook’s Notes)

Place the rice stick noodles in a large bowl and cover completely with hot water. Soak until softened, about 20 minutes. Rinse under warm water, drain, then cover and set aside.

Place the mushrooms in a small container with a tight-fitting lid, fill the container to the top with hot water, and cover. (Using a covered container keeps the mushrooms completely submerged.) Soak the mushrooms until softened, about 20 minutes. Drain, discard the stems, and cut the mushrooms into thin strips. Set aside.

Meanwhile, in a 6-quart saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low heat and swirl to coat the pan. Sauté the garlic, ginger, onion, and chiles until soft but not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken broth, soy sauce, and anise. Reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Add the carrot and reserved mushrooms and cook until the carrot is crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Add the bok choy and salmon. Simmer just until the salmon is cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes longer.

Divide the noodles among 6 heated soup bowls. Ladle the soup over the noodles and top each bowl with a piece of salmon and 2 portions of bok choy. Garnish with the basil and serve immediately.

COOK’S NOTES

Rice noodles are sold primarily in Asian grocery stores, but many well-stocked supermarkets also have them. The noodles used in this recipe are Thai or Vietnamese translucent flat rice stick noodles about ¼ inch wide. The package will be labeled rice stick (ban pho or sen yai). • Dark soy sauce, sometimes labeled “black soy sauce “ or “soy superior sauce,” is aged for longer periods than regular soy sauce and usually contains molasses. It adds a distinct and hearty depth of flavor to a dish. My favorite brand is Koon Chun Black Soy. If you can’t find dark soy sauce, substitute 1 tablespoon of regular soy mixed with ½ teaspoon of molasses. • Thai sweet basil (bai horapha) has purplish stems, green leaves, and an aniseed aroma and flavor. It is commonly used in soups, curries, and stir-fried dishes. Though primarily sold in Asian grocery stores, many well-stocked natural foods stores carry Thai basil. Substitute Italian sweet basil if necessary.