Smoked Salmon Pillows

Suggested wine: Oregon pinot noir; French chardonnay such as St. Verán or Mâconnais

These hors d’oeuvres are adorable, like fluffy little square pillows! Nothing beats these easyto-make and fabulous-tasting puff pastry appetizers, crisp and warm from the oven. The smoked salmon filling is a snap to make, and with such a small quantity to mix, I prefer to blend it by hand with a rubber spatula rather than have to wash my food processor. Keep a batch in the freezer for spur-of-the-moment entertaining or a stress-free cocktail party. Smoked salmon pillows and Champagne make a perfect pairing.

MAKES 36 PILLOWS; SERVES 12 AS AN APPETIZER

• 1 package (17.3 ounces) frozen puff pastry sheets
• 4 ounces goat cheese, at room temperature
• 4 ounces smoked salmon (lox), finely diced
• 3 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
• 1 tablespoon heavy (whipping) cream
• 1 large egg, lightly beaten
• All-purpose flour for dusting

Thaw the puff pastry at room temperature for 30 minutes. While the pastry is thawing, prepare the filling: In a small bowl, combine the goat cheese, salmon, chives, cream, and 1 tablespoon of the beaten egg. Reserve the remaining egg for glazing the top of the pastry. Cover and refrigerate while rolling out the pastry.

Unfold one of the pastry sheets and place it on a work surface lightly dusted with flour. Using a rolling pin, roll out the pastry into a 12-inch square. Trim the edges, preferably with a pastry cutter or pizza wheel, to form an exact square. Slide the pastry sheet onto a baking sheet, cover it with plastic wrap, and refrigerate the pastry while you roll out the second sheet. Dust the work surface with additional flour, if needed, and roll out and cut the second pastry sheet exactly like the first one.

Using a ruler and a paring knife, measure and lightly score the second pastry, marking off six 2-inch-wide columns and six 2-inch-wide rows, forming thirty-six 2-inch squares. Do not cut through the pastry; just score it lightly enough to see the lines. Remove the filling from the refrigerator and place 1 rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of each square.

Remove the pastry sheet from the refrigerator and, lifting carefully, place it on top of the first pastry sheet. Align the sides exactly. Using a chopstick or the back of a table knife, lightly press down between the rows and columns to form little ravioli or pillows. Press just enough to see the mounds of filling. Using a pastry brush, brush the top of the pastry completely with some of the remaining beaten egg. Using a pizza cutter or pastry wheel, cut the pastry along the indented lines into 2-inch squares. Press lightly along the edges to seal the filling inside. Arrange the squares 1 inch apart on 2 nonstick or parchment-lined baking sheets. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 day. (The pillows can be made up to this point and frozen for up to 1 month. Once the pastry is cold, arrange them in a single layer between sheets of waxed paper in a covered freezer container.)

Position the oven racks in the center and top third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 425°F- Bake the pastries, rotating the pans halfway through the baking time, until crisp, puffed, and golden, about 12 minutes. Let cool on the pans for 5 minutes. Use a spatula to carefully lift and transfer the pillows to a warmed platter. Serve immediately.